Rhubarb elicits so many childhood memories. I love growing this so-called fruit that’s actually a vegetable. A perennial, rhubarb really grows itself. It’s the first to poke through the soil in early spring, starting with little red bumps and furled, neon green leaves that stretch out dramatically in a few weeks. The Chinese were perhaps the first to use rhubarb for its medicinal purposes. In fact, it was one of the first Chinese medicines to be exported to Europe, sometime in the fourteenth century. The European colonists brought rhubarb seeds to the New World, and records show that it was grown and cultivated as early as the eighteenth century.
The popularity of rhubarb increased considerably in the twentieth century between the two world wars. Perhaps the fact that it grew anywhere and with little fuss, made it a good crop for the Depression years.
Call it my renewed passion for all things old-fashioned, to me, rhubarb is delicious and interesting. It’s known as ‘the pie plant’ but you can use it in so many applications sweet or savory. One such example are these rhubarb cream puffs with craquelin topping.
Cream puffs start with choux pastry, a heady mixture of butter, milk, water, eggs & flour. When you combine these ingredients, they become so dense and sticky that it seems impossible they’ll come together as soft, puffy, light, tender. Heat is what initiates the expansion of the dense paste. Steam from the milk and water expands the pastry’s edges, puffing up its capacity until the oven heat provides just enough crispness and structure to hold the puffs’ boundaries. A cream puff expands so dramatically in the oven that it creates a cavern inside to hold any number of things—whipped cream, pastry cream, ice cream or savory fillings.
Cream puff pastry (or choux pastry) is the base for profiteroles (smaller puffs filled with ice cream), éclairs (elongated puffs filled with pastry cream and glazed), croquembouche (a tower of cream puffs held together and drizzled with caramel) and savory appetizer puffs called gougeres with cheese and herbs.
Craquelin (pronounced kra-ke-lan) is a thin biscuit layer that can be added over choux pastries before baking them. It is used to create a crackly appearance, crunchy texture and a buttery sweet taste as well as helping the choux pastry bake evenly to form hollow rounds. This topping reminded me of a similar cookie-like topping used on Mexican sweet bread called ‘conchas’. It certainly dresses up ordinary cream puffs.
| Servings |
Minis
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- 40 gm (approx. 2 Tbsp) custard powder
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 cup milk
- 1 tsp pure vanilla
- red gel food coloring (optional)
- 1 3/4 Tbsp (25 gm) unsalted butter
- 7 Tbsp (90 gm) butter, cold, cut into small cubes
- 1/2 cup light brown sugar
- 3/4 cup flour
- pinch of salt
- 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract or to taste
- red GEL food coloring
Ingredients
Thick Custard
Craquelin Topping
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- In a small bowl, mix the custard powder & sugar with a splash of the cold milk to form a smooth paste. In a saucepan, heat the remaining milk & vanilla until just starting to simmer. Whisk the hot milk into the custard paste, then pour everything back into the saucepan.
- Cook over a medium-low heat, whisking continuously, until the mixture becomes very thick & glossy. Remove from heat & beat in the butter until melted. Press a piece of clingfilm directly onto the surface to prevent skin from forming.
- Allow to cool then place it in a food processor with the stewed rhubarb & blend to a smooth pudding-like consistency. Set aside to cool further until ready to use.
- In a food processor, process sugar, red gel coloring (if using) & butter until they form large crumbs. Add flour, salt & vanilla; process until a dough forms. Bring dough together to form a disk.
- Roll the dough between 2 pieces of parchment paper until it is 1/16-inch thickness. Place in the freezer for about an hour then cut into (18) 2-inch circles & keep in the freezer until ready to use.
- Preheat oven to 350 F. Line a couple of cookie sheets with parchment paper.
- In a saucepot, combine milk, water, butter & salt; bring to boiling. Add flour, all at once, stirring vigorously. Cook & stir until mixture forms a ball. Remove from heat & add eggs, one at a time, beating well with a wooden spoon after each addition.
- Place dough in a piping bag fitted with a large round tip. Pipe (18) 1 1/2-inch circles. Cover each with a frozen craquelin round circle of dough. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until slightly golden, puffed & firm. Transfer to a wire rack & allow to cool.
- Poke a hole in each cream puff. Fill a pastry bag with rhubarb custard & gently pipe filling into each cream puff. Serve.