Rhubarb Custard Cream Puffs w/ Craquelin Topping

Rhubarb elicits so many childhood memories. I love growing this so-called fruit that’s actually a vegetable. A perennial, rhubarb really grows itself.  It’s the first to poke through the soil in early spring, starting with little red bumps and furled, neon green leaves that stretch out dramatically in a few weeks. The Chinese were perhaps the first to use rhubarb for its medicinal purposes. In fact, it was one of the first Chinese medicines to be exported to Europe, sometime in the fourteenth century. The European colonists brought rhubarb seeds to the New World, and records show that it was grown and cultivated as early as the eighteenth century.

The popularity of rhubarb increased considerably in the twentieth century between the two world wars. Perhaps the fact that it grew anywhere and with little fuss, made it a good crop for the Depression years.

Call it my renewed passion for all things old-fashioned, to me, rhubarb is delicious and interesting. It’s known as ‘the pie plant’ but you can use it in so many applications sweet or savory. One such example are these rhubarb cream puffs with craquelin topping.

Cream puffs start with choux pastry, a heady mixture of butter, milk, water, eggs & flour. When you combine these ingredients, they become so dense and sticky that it seems impossible they’ll come together as soft, puffy, light, tender. Heat is what initiates the expansion of the dense paste. Steam from the milk and water expands the pastry’s edges, puffing up its capacity until the oven heat provides just enough crispness and structure to hold the puffs’ boundaries. A cream puff expands so dramatically in the oven that it creates a cavern inside to hold any number of things—whipped cream, pastry cream, ice cream or savory fillings.

Cream puff pastry (or choux pastry) is the base for profiteroles (smaller puffs filled with ice cream), éclairs (elongated puffs filled with pastry cream and glazed), croquembouche (a tower of cream puffs held together and drizzled with caramel) and savory appetizer puffs called gougeres with cheese and herbs.

Craquelin (pronounced kra-ke-lan) is a thin biscuit layer that can be added over choux pastries before baking them. It is used to create a crackly appearance, crunchy texture and a buttery sweet taste as well as helping the choux pastry bake evenly to form hollow rounds. This topping reminded me of a similar cookie-like topping used on Mexican sweet bread called ‘conchas’. It certainly dresses up ordinary cream puffs.

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Rhubarb Custard Cream Puffs w/ Craquelin Topping
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Thick Custard
Choux Pastry
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Thick Custard
Choux Pastry
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Instructions
Stewed Rhubarb
  1. In a small saucepan, combine the chopped rhubarb, sugar & water. Cook over medium-low heat for 5-8 minutes until rhubarb is soft, jammy & holds its shape. Remove from heat to cool.
Thick Custard
  1. In a small bowl, mix the custard powder & sugar with a splash of the cold milk to form a smooth paste. In a saucepan, heat the remaining milk & vanilla until just starting to simmer. Whisk the hot milk into the custard paste, then pour everything back into the saucepan.
  2. Cook over a medium-low heat, whisking continuously, until the mixture becomes very thick & glossy. Remove from heat & beat in the butter until melted. Press a piece of clingfilm directly onto the surface to prevent skin from forming.
  3. Allow to cool then place it in a food processor with the stewed rhubarb & blend to a smooth pudding-like consistency. Set aside to cool further until ready to use.
Craquelin
  1. In a food processor, process sugar, red gel coloring (if using) & butter until they form large crumbs. Add flour, salt & vanilla; process until a dough forms. Bring dough together to form a disk.
  2. Roll the dough between 2 pieces of parchment paper until it is 1/16-inch thickness. Place in the freezer for about an hour then cut into (18) 2-inch circles & keep in the freezer until ready to use.
Choux Pastry
  1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Line a couple of cookie sheets with parchment paper.
  2. In a saucepot, combine milk, water, butter & salt; bring to boiling. Add flour, all at once, stirring vigorously. Cook & stir until mixture forms a ball. Remove from heat & add eggs, one at a time, beating well with a wooden spoon after each addition.
  3. Place dough in a piping bag fitted with a large round tip. Pipe (18) 1 1/2-inch circles. Cover each with a frozen craquelin round circle of dough. Bake for 30-35 minutes or until slightly golden, puffed & firm. Transfer to a wire rack & allow to cool.
Assembly
  1. Poke a hole in each cream puff. Fill a pastry bag with rhubarb custard & gently pipe filling into each cream puff. Serve.

Peachy Chicken

The original Peachy Chicken recipe has been printed on the back of the Heinz Malt Vinegar bottle for many years. Peaches paired with chicken just go together extremely well. The chicken cooked in peach sauce just melts in your mouth and the sauce itself has a sweet & sour flavor that is just amazing.

Malt vinegar transforms simple baked chicken into something incredibly special! Made from malted grains of barley, malt vinegar has a tart flavor and can help to enhance the flavors of other foods it is paired with. It is best known for topping fish and chips.

Malt vinegar is produced from the same grains that are used for making beer, and so it has a similar lemony, nutty, and caramel flavor profile as malted ale. It can range in color from light to dark brown while some distilled varieties are clear.

Usually found in condiment or bakery aisles at the grocery store, it’s become a culinary mainstay in British and Canadian cuisines.

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Peachy Chicken
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Cuisine North American
Keyword peachy chicken
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Instructions
  1. In a large skillet, brown the chicken thighs, onion & garlic in the oil.
  2. Combine the reserved peach juice, orange juice concentrate, vinegar, brown sugar, red pepper flakes (if using), basil, salt, cloves, cinnamon & pepper. Pour over browned chicken mixture. Cover & simmer 25-30 minutes or until chicken is cooked through.
  3. Add peaches; heat. Combine cornstarch & water; stir into sauce. Heat, stirring, until sauce is thickened.
  4. Serve chicken & sauce over rice.
Recipe Notes

• If malt vinegar is not available, try using apple cider vinegar as a substitute.

Individual Tomato Onion Galettes

The galette is a perfect example of France’s time-honored relationship with baking. No other country has taken the simple combination of flour, dairy and heat to create such a varied range of delicious dishes, both sweet and savory. Originating in Norman times – when it was known as a gale – the term simply refers to a ‘flat cake’. Over time (and depending on what part of France you’re in), it’s become a catchall term for a variety of different sweet and savory bakes. Some may be more well-known than others, but the one thing they all have in common is that they’re flat, round and quintessentially French.

Savory galettes are a versatile and rustic form of tart, distinguished by their free-form crust that encases a variety of savory fillings. Unlike traditional tarts or pies, galettes are made by folding the edges of a single sheet of dough over the filling, leaving the center exposed. Galettes can be served in individual portions. This means that the crust-to-filling ratio is better than a slice from a larger galette. 

Brion & I enjoyed these tasty little galettes with some roasted pork chops.

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Individual Tomato Onion Galettes
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Instructions
Crust
  1. Preheat oven to 400 F.
  2. Whisk together flour, cornmeal, parmesan, oregano, salt & pepper. Add the water & oil & mix until combined. Pat into a disk & wrap in plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator for 1/2 an hour.
Filling
  1. Sauté onions in olive oil until they are golden brown & caramelized. Slice tomatoes & grate cheese for sprinkling. Set aside.
Assembly
  1. Lightly flour work surface. Divide crust into 4 pieces. Roll each one into about a 6-inch diameter. Press into 4 individual tart pans.
  2. Spread onions into bottom of shell. Fan the tomatoes on top of the onions then sprinkle with cheese.
  3. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until pastry is golden & crisp & tomatoes are soft. Serve warm.

Poor Man’s Lobster

I’m not sure about you, but lobster is a rare treat in our household because it’s so expensive.Poor Mans Lobster’ with melted butter is a dish that is made with white fish, so it tastes just like lobster, but it doesn’t cost a fortune. 

When the first European settlers reached North America, lobsters were so plentiful that they would reportedly wash ashore in piles up to 2 feet high. Their bounty made them a precious source of sustenance during hard times—and gave them a lowbrow reputation as the poor man’s protein. Instead of this leading to seafood festivals and celebrations like the clambake, colonists were just super embarrassed by all of, what they called ‘the ‘cockroaches of the sea’. These hard-shelled creatures were even used as fertilizer and fish bait because there were just so many around. Dirt-cheap because they were so copious, lobsters were routinely fed to prisoners, apprentices, slaves and children during the colonial era and beyond.

However, all this started to change in the mid 1800’s because of canned food and trains. Lobster actually became one of the most popular canned products on the market. Later, during World War II, canned lobster was used to feed soldiers. 

Once railroad transportation began to make travel easier, more and more people began to experience the taste for lobster. Thanks to the cheap price tag and the copious quantities, lobster was served on passenger trains. Passengers were intrigued by the dish and word began to spread about the rediscovered cuisine.

Before long, demand and prices for lobster both increased, as the crustacean was ultimately rebranded by the North American population from a food for the poor to a far more decadent dish.

Today, poor man’s lobster refers to a dish made of white fish, cooked in the style of lobster, mimicking many of the similar flavors. Once simmered in boiling water, dipped in butter, with a squeeze of lemon, it takes on a taste like cooked lobster.

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Poor Man's Lobster
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Instructions
  1. Preheat broiler.
  2. In a bowl, mix together water, sugar & salt then add to a large skillet.
  3. Place fish filets in the skillet & bring to a gentle simmer. Cook the cod by avoiding a hard boil during the poaching step. Keep the water at a gentle simmer & watch the cooking time closely ... overcooking is the main cause of rubbery fish.
  4. After poaching, transfer the cod to a baking sheet, brush with some melted butter & season with paprika.
  5. Broil for about 7 minutes on low until fish flakes easily with a fork.
  6. Brush with more butter & juice from the lemon & serve.
  7. This meal is nice served with broccoli or green beans & roasted potatoes or rice. We added some 'Cheddar Bay Bread' as well.

Roasted Tenderloin Skewers w/ Papaya Chutney

Today, March 21st, our family is honoring the memory of our wonderful father’s birth date. Although it has been 21 years since his passing, he lives on in our hearts. It never ceases to amaze me how many things your parents do that are imprinted on you in childhood. As I grow older, I see and hear my dad living on through me. It seems we never fully appreciate our parents until they are gone. I’m told, ‘it’s a kid thing’, which doesn’t really seem to make it any better.

Having been raised on a farm, pork was a very common meal. Roast pork, chops and ribs were probably the cuts I remember eating the most.

When this date rolls around each year, I like to post something on the blog that I think my dad would have enjoyed. Today, I thought it would be nice to make some roast tenderloin skewers with papaya chutney.

Pork pairs well with fruits from tropical to mild because some cuts of pork are rich and fatty, while others are milder in flavor. You can substitute different fruits in almost any pork recipe to create unique flavor profiles. Chutneys are amazing condiments for roasted and grilled meats, including pork, chicken, duck, and lamb.

This simple-to-prepare chutney makes for a tasty, tart counterpart to the richness of the pork tenderloin. But nothing says you couldn’t spoon it over cream cheese or pâté for an easy appetizer dip, or serve it with grilled sausages, or spread some on a ham or grilled cheese sandwich. The possibilities are endless!

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Roasted Tenderloin Skewers w/ Papaya Chutney
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Instructions
Chutney
  1. Heat the oil in a large skillet & sauté the onion over medium heat until softened.
  2. Stir in remaining ingredients & bring to a boil. Reduce heat & simmer for about 35 minutes or until fruit is very soft.
  3. Remove from heat & allow to cool slightly then pulse in a food processor for a few seconds. Don't over process because the chutney is nice if it still as a slightly chunky texture.
Tenderloin
  1. In a resealable plastic bag, place cubed tenderloin. Add oil & steak spice & shake well to combine. Place in refrigerator for a few hours or overnight to marinate.
  2. Preheat oven to 400 F-425 F. Line a large baking sheet with foil.
  3. Thread marinated pork onto skewers. Arrange skewers about 1-inch apart on the baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes, turning once or twice, until the pork is cooked through.
  4. Bake for 15-20 minutes, turning once or twice, until the pork is cooked through but NOT overcooked. To get a nice char, switch the oven to the broiler for the last 1-2 minutes.
  5. Remove tenderloin cubes from skewers on place on a bed of steamed rice. Top with warm papaya chutney.

Mincemeat Pancakes w/ Orange Butter Sauce

The combination of mincemeat with pancakes and orange sauce is typically enjoyed as a festive twist on traditional breakfast fare during the Christmas holidays. The orange flavor is a natural fit, as many modern mincemeat recipes incorporate orange as a key flavor. 

Mincemeat originated in medieval England and the Middle East as a method for preserving meat using a mixture of minced meat, suet, fruits, and expensive spices like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. The spices helped to show off wealth and disguise the flavor of older meat. Over centuries, the meat content in mincemeat gradually decreased, replaced by more fruit and suet. By the end of the 19th century, meat was a rare inclusion, and the dish fully transitioned from a savory main course to the sweet Christmas dessert we know today.

You might wonder what mincemeat is good for besides mince pies (or just eating with a spoon). You can stir it into a cobbler; add a cup to a muffin recipe; heat it up and spread it on your weekend pancakes or waffles; or use it in place of dates in a date square recipe. You could even serve it on a cheese plate as a very seasonal chutney.

I realize mincemeat isn’t for everyone but if you do care for it, these pancakes with orange butter sauce are well worth a try.

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Mincemeat Pancakes w/ Orange Butter Sauce
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PANCAKES
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Pancakes
Orange Butter Sauce
Servings
PANCAKES
Ingredients
Pancakes
Orange Butter Sauce
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Instructions
Orange Butter Sauce
  1. Place the sugar, water & orange zest in a pan & bring to the boil, let it bubble & froth for 1 minute on a medium heat, then turn down the heat to low & stir in the butter until melted. Leave on a very low heat until ready to serve.
Pancakes
  1. Place the milk and mincemeat in a large bowl and stir to combine.
  2. Add flour, baking powder, sugar, egg, vanilla extract & salt. Use a whisk to mix until combined.
  3. Pour ¼ tbsp. oil in a large skillet, then wipe around with a kitchen towel to cover the pan. Heat the pan on a medium heat until hot. Pour in enough mixture to make three pancakes (approx. ¼ cup of mix per pancake). Turn the pancakes over when bubbles form on top & then burst, & the edges start to look firm (about 1-2 minutes). Cook on the other side for another 1-2 minutes. Repeat with the rest of the mixture - oiling the pan each time - until all the pancakes are cooked (keep the pancakes warm in a very low oven while you’re making each batch).
Assembly
  1. Stack 3 pancakes on each plate. Top each stack with orange segments, butter sauce & whipped cream.

Rhubarb Speculoos Tarts

Speculoos, also known as speculaas in Dutch, spéculoos in French, and Spekulatius in German, is a type of spiced short crust biscuit.

Speculoos originated from the County of Flanders, which encompasses present-day Belgium, France, and the Netherlands. The Dutch crafted speculoos using wheat flour, brown sugar, butter, and traditional speculaas spices, including cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves, and ginger. These spiced biscuits are usually flat and often molded with traditional images, especially around the feast of St. Nicholas (Dutch: Sinterklaas).

While historically associated with holiday treats like Dutch Windmill Cookies, Biscoff Cookies, and German Spekulatius Spice Cookies its versatility extends beyond these traditional uses. There are several ways to incorporate speculoos spice into your culinary creations such as:

  • Add a touch of speculoos spice to your classic chocolate chip cookie recipe.
  • Toss whole almonds with melted butter, sugar, and a generous sprinkle of speculoos spice then roast them in the oven until golden and fragrant for a tasty snack or edible gift.
  • Stir a pinch of speculoos spice into your favorite warm beverages.
  • Sprinkle speculoos spice over waffles, pancakes, or French toast.
  • Create a no-churn ice cream by infusing your base with speculoos spice. Enjoy it on its own or as a delightful topping for apple pie, crepes, or other seasonal desserts.

In this recipe the rhubarb and nectarine pair wonderfully with the warm, spiced flavors of speculoos creating a decadent tart.

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Rhubarb Speculoos Tarts
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Cream
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Cream
To Assemble
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Instructions
Base
  1. Preheat oven to 320 F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. Place the speculoos in the bowl of a food processer & process until finely ground. Add the salt, process once or twice then turn into a medium-sized bowl & mix in the melted butter until you have a sort of dough.
  3. Place six 3-inch (7.5cm) metal rounds on the baking sheet & press equal amounts of the dough into each one, using a metal soup spoon to press them so they are even around the edges. Make a slight indentation in the center. Place in the center of the pre-heated oven & bake about 15 minutes. Remove and let cool.
Rhubarb
  1. Place the water, sugar, ginger, vanilla in a medium saucepan & bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat so the syrup is boiling, whisking from time to time, until the sugar is dissolved. Add the rhubarb, stir gently so it is mixed with the syrup & return the syrup to a low boil. Shake the pan & watch the rhubarb as it cooks & stir if necessary. Depending on its texture, the rhubarb will cook in about 1-1/2 minutes, though it can take up to 5 minutes.
  2. Remove from the heat. With a slotted spoon remove rhubarb carefully to a plate. Whisk in 1 Tbsp of cornstarch . Continue whisking until cornstarch is dissolved & syrup is thickened. Remove from heat & cool for a couple of minutes the gently stir in rhubarb. Allow rhubarb to cool until ready to assemble.
Cream
  1. Whisk the sour cream with the vanilla sugar.
Assemble
  1. Carefully remove tart bases from rings. Lay equal numbers of nectarine slices atop the crust with the skin out to the edge. Top with sour cream/vanilla sugar. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to one hour.
  2. To serve, top with rhubarb sauce & serve immediately.

Clementine Kiwi Upside Down Puddings

At Christmas time, the clementine is one of the most popular and plentiful varieties, its tight, glossy skin often accompanied by a sprig of zesty leaves. Many of us have fond memories of when they were stuffed into Christmas stockings with other nostalgic treats.

Most people probably don’t know where this clementine tradition comes from, but the mythical story is rather a charming one. It tells how Saint Nicholas, the 4th century Greek bishop upon whom Santa Claus was modelled, one day heard of a poor man who had failed to find suitors for his three daughters, lacking money for their dowries. Nicholas sought out the man’s house and tipped three sacks of gold down the chimney, where the coins happened to land in the girls’ stockings, which were drying beside the fire. The clementines (or oranges) in our modern Christmas stockings are said to be a symbol of the saint’s generosity. Poverty and desire probably also played a role in fostering the custom in times past, oranges were not only an affordable gift, but also a brief taste of exotic, sunnier climes.

As for the clementine itself, its origins are somewhat uncertain. Oranges are like roses, with endless hybrids having been cultivated over the centuries, each with its own particular shape, scent, texture and taste. The clementine is a mixture of a mandarin and a classic sweet orange, and is said to have been discovered by Clement Rodier, a French monk living in 19th century Algeria, who found it growing in the orchard of the orphanage he ran.

It’s that easy peel factor, along with a lack of seeds, that has catapulted the clementine above old-fashioned oranges in popularity.

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Clementine Kiwi Upside Down Puddings
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Pudding Cake
Vanilla/Lime Sauce
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Pudding Cake
Vanilla/Lime Sauce
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Instructions
Topping
  1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
  2. From parchment paper, cut circles to lay on the bottom of 6 individual custard cups. Divide melted butter between the cups. Sprinkle brown sugar over top the butter. Top with clementine & kiwi slices.
Pudding/Cake
  1. In a small bowl, beat together eggs & sugar until thick; gradually beat in oil. In a small dish, combine flour, baking powder, spices & salt. Stir flour mixture into egg/sugar mixture, then add juice (or milk) & vanilla. Stir ONLY until combined.
  2. Pour batter over fruit in custard cups, dividing it evenly between them. Bake 15-20 minutes or until they test done with a toothpick. Allow cakes to cool for about 5 minutes, then invert onto a rack to finish cooling.
Vanilla/Lime Sauce
  1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar & cornstarch. Add water & bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook for a few minutes until sauce has thickened. Remove from heat & add vanilla & lime juice. Stir well & set aside to cool.
Assembly
  1. Divide sauce between 6 individual dessert plates & top with a clementine/kiwi cake. Serve warm or cold.

Crispy Baked Chicken Croquettes

The croquette originated in French cuisine. The word ‘croquette’ is derived from the French verb ‘coquer’, meaning ‘to crunch’.

Croquettes can be served as side dishes, snacks, or fast food as well as a main dish. Typically, small patties, croquettes are made from ingredients like meat, potatoes, or vegetables. While they are traditionally deep-fried, baking them is a healthier alternative that still yields delicious results. Baking versus frying is a common culinary debate, and both methods have their merits. Myself, I’ll always opt for baking. Maybe it has something to do with having worked in the restaurant industry for 35 years of my life. The smell of grease always makes me want to run a mile to get away from it. That being said, I guess it’s whatever you prefer personally that’s important.

These baked chicken croquettes combine leftover chicken with mashed potatoes and shallots. They are coated with breadcrumbs and baked until crispy. The result is a flavorful and satisfying dish that can be enjoyed as a main course or even as an appetizer.

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Crispy Baked Chicken Croquettes
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Instructions
  1. In a bowl place the potatoes, butter, milk, salt, pepper, & 1 teaspoon parsley. Mash to desired consistency as you want some texture. To the potatoes add the chicken & shallots; stir to combine. Next, add in 1 egg & 1/4 cup unseasoned bread crumbs. Mix to combine. The mixture should be sticky but not runny.
  2. Cover & chill for at least 1-2 hours. You want it to be cold so you can form it.
  3. Preheat the oven to 450 F. with a rack in the middle. Line a baking pan with parchment paper & lightly spray.
  4. In a pie plate beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon water. In a second pie plate add in the panko & remaining unseasoned bread crumbs & 1 tsp parsley; mix to combine. Make an assembly line starting with the croquette mixture, egg & then breadcrumbs with the baking sheet at the end.
  5. Measure 1/4 cup of the mixture & form into croquettes (long cylinders about 2” or you can make into cone shapes).
  6. Dip, coating all sides, in the egg mixture. Place in the breadcrumbs & coat evenly. Place on the baking sheet & repeat making the rest of the croquettes. Generously spray (or lightly drizzle) olive oil on the croquettes. Do not soak them but you should be able to see the oil glisten on the breadcrumbs. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown.
  7. To get super crunchy, place the oven to broil & broil for 2-3 minutes on each side. Remove from the oven & serve with pan gravy from the leftover roasted chicken.

Orange Bread w/ Strawberry Chia Preserves

The other day Brion & I were in a ‘Winners’ store and were looking through the gourmet food section. A couple of Pol’s Gourmet Preserves caught our attention. One was the Strawberry Chia Preserve. The preserve combines ripe strawberries with chia seeds, date juice, and lemon juice, cooked in vacuum boilers. It is marketed as a healthy and natural product with a focus on natural flavor and consistency. Pol’s utilizes vacuum technology to maintain the strawberries’ natural qualities during the cooking process. They also emphasize the use of natural base ingredients and the absence of additives beyond the natural components. 

We purchased a jar even though I wasn’t sure at the time what I would use it for since neither of us use a lot of preserves on toast. Of course, it didn’t take long to find a way to incorporate it into a recipe.

I have childhood memories of my mother making an orange bread loaf. I always thought it was so unique because it used the fresh orange zest from two whole oranges. The flavor was so distinct along with the bread being wonderfully moist. This recipe was one that has remained with me over the years, long after I had left my parents’ home. I used it numerous times over the years in my food service career in different applications.

Today I decided to swirl some of this interesting preserve into my mother’s orange bread loaf and the flavor was even better than I thought it would be. This orange loaf recipe is perfect for when you need a make-ahead dessert. I like it even more on the second day because the orange aroma (and flavor) becomes even more vibrant. 

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Orange Bread w/ Strawberry Chia Preserves
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Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter or line an 8" x 4" x 3-inch loaf pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
  2. Peel oranges thinly & finely chop peel. Boil with sugar & water for 10 minutes: cool. Pour into a large bowl & add egg & butter.
  3. In a small bowl, combine flour, salt & baking powder. Add dry mixture to wet mixture alternately with milk.
  4. Pour batter into prepared loaf pan. Top with dollops of strawberry preserve. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, swirl preserve into batter making sure not to over stir so it creates a marbled effect.
  5. Bake for about 45 minutes or until bread tests done. Remove from oven & cool on wire rack. As I mentioned in the blog, the bread tastes better the second day if you can wait that long to try it.